The Complete Guide to Cotton Fabrics: Types, Weights, Weaves & Sourcing from China

Why This Guide Exists

Every year, over 25 million tons of cotton fiber are produced globally, and China accounts for roughly 20% of world production. Yet when international brands search for cotton fabric suppliers, they face a confusing landscape of fabric names, weave codes, and weight specifications.

We wrote this guide from Mujia Textile’s production floor in Keqiao, Shaoxing — the world’s largest textile trading hub. Our goal: give you the knowledge to choose the right cotton fabric for your product, evaluate supplier claims, and source with confidence.

Part 1: The Four Factors That Define Any Cotton Fabric

Every cotton fabric — from a fine poplin shirt to a heavy corduroy jacket — is defined by four variables: fiber, weave, weight, and finish.

1. Fiber (What It’s Made Of)

Practical tip: If a supplier says “100% cotton” without naming the grade, they mean short-staple upland. That’s the industry standard — but you should know what you’re getting.

2. Weave (How It’s Constructed)

From our floor: Our corduroy line (MJ128 fine, MJ138 mid, MJ555 wide wale) uses pile weave; our print fabrics (8135 poplin, M4011) use plain weave; our gingham 7702 series uses a yarn-dyed plain weave.

3. Weight (GSM — Grams per Square Meter)

Quick reference: Always specify target GSM when requesting quotes. A poplin at 100 GSM and a poplin at 160 GSM are fundamentally different products — same weave, different hand-feel and end use.

4. Finish (Post-Weaving Treatment)

• Mercerized: Increased luster and dye absorption. Premium shirting.
• Sanforized: Pre-shrunk to under 1% residual shrinkage. Ready-to-wear essential.
• Peach-sanded: Soft, suede-like surface. Casual wear.
• Bio-washed: Enzyme treatment removes loose fibers. Cleaner, softer.
• Water-repellent: DWR coating for outdoor applications.

Part 2: The 8 Cotton Fabrics Every Buyer Should Know

Price note: Ranges reflect 2025–2026 Keqiao quotations. Final pricing depends on quantity, color, finish, and raw cotton prices.

Part 3: How to Source Cotton Fabric from China

Step 1 — Define Your Specification

Never send a vague inquiry. Specify fiber type, weave, target GSM (±10%), width, total meters and colors, finish, and any certifications (OEKO-TEX, GRS, GOTS).

Step 2 — Evaluate Suppliers on 5 Points

1. Production capability: own machines or trader?
2. Quality system: documented QC standards?
3. Export experience in your market?
4. Sample quality: request 3–5 swatches first.
5. Communication speed: slow replies mean slow delivery.

Step 3 — Verify Before Bulk

Approve lab dips (7–10 days), order sample yardage (5–10 m), request test reports for color fastness (ISO 105), shrinkage (ISO 6330) and composition (ISO 1833), and arrange third-party inspection on orders over $10,000.

Step 4 — Plan the Timeline

Part 4: Common Questions About Cotton Fabrics

What is the difference between cotton and combed cotton?

Combed cotton goes through an extra combing process that removes short fibers, producing smoother, stronger yarn. It costs 15–25% more but feels noticeably softer.

How do I verify fabric is really 100% cotton?

Request a composition report from SGS, Intertek or BV ($30–50). In a burn test, cotton burns fast with a yellow flame and smells like burning paper; synthetics melt and smell chemical.

What GSM is best for a cotton shirt?

Dress shirts: 100–130 GSM. Casual shirts: 130–170 GSM. Heavy overshirts: 170–220 GSM.

What is the MOQ from Chinese mills?

Large mills often require 3,000–5,000 m per color. Specialized mills like Mujia Textile accept orders from 300 m per color for smaller brands.

Part 5: Why Source from Keqiao?

Keqiao District, Shaoxing hosts China Textile City — the world’s largest textile trading center by volume, with 50,000+ textile businesses, 30,000+ fabric varieties, and a complete cotton-to-finished-fabric supply chain within a 50 km radius. This vertical integration typically gives a 15–30% cost advantage with faster turnaround.